Why do we buy Rolex Water Ghost?

Rolex watch

Rolex watch

Why do we buy Rolex Water Ghost? What do you say?

Maybe you are expecting me to write some great ideas, but it seems that I have been stuck on this topic for a long time, and you may not be satisfied with my answer. I don’t want to discuss the so-called market price dynamics, because I always think that the market is short-term and unreliable. Only by discussing the history of the work itself and the details of the production process can we truly understand its value.

Sean Connery and wearing a Rolex Submariner

Sean Connery and wearing a Rolex Submariner

You might think: In the watch consumer market, everyone respects Rolex, what craftsmanship still need to know? In addition to the fluctuations and changes in market prices, Rolex is after all Rolex, so much needs to be said? Maybe, but if we talk about Rolex watches, we only have to talk about how much money, how much premium, how much expected “appreciation”, isn’t it too boring? I’m so sorry that the creation of Rolex watches for more than one hundred years has caused a history that has been loved by thousands of people around the world.

Sean Connery wears a Rolex Submariner in the Bond movie "Goldfinger" (1964)

Sean Connery wears a Rolex Submariner in the Bond movie “Goldfinger” (1964)

In 2020, when the new Rolex product is released, many guesses are completely wrong. Rolex is so willful. It slightly increases the case size of the Submariner to 41mm. If you don’t look closely, you can’t see the other details. Here I am bold. To talk about a few of the small features of the Rolex Submariner watch may be regarded as a sort of submariner, but also for friends who love the Submariner watch to enjoy the aftertaste.

1. Watch crown small shoulder guard

In 1953, the first Rolex Submariner (submariner type) came out. At that time, a director of Rolex, because of his love of diving, proposed that Rolex create a watch for diving purposes. After research and development, it was launched on the market. This is what we commonly call the “water ghost” submariner. The model watch was born. The first Submariner model 6204 has a water resistance of 100 meters, but the crown at that time was a big round flat. Later, some models were also nicknamed “Big Crown” because of this crown.

2020 Rolex Submariner 41 mm

2020 Rolex Submariner 41 mm

However, after years of constant changes, revisions, research and other changes, the Ref.5512, launched in 1959, became the finalized work of modern Submariner. With a case diameter of 40 mm and a crown thickness of about 7 mm, it turned out to be It first appeared on the crown shoulder of the Submariner watch. It was also at this time that the design of the crown shoulder became one of the iconic designs of the Rolex Submariner watch, and all models of the Submariner watch were waterproof The depth has also increased from 100 meters to 200 meters. Since its inception, the Rolex Submariner has always been in the field of diving watches, standing at the benchmark of technology and design.

Rolex Submariner 5512 antique watch born in 1958

Rolex Submariner 5512 antique watch born in 1958

2. Should the watch have no calendar or a calendar?

No calendar water ghost (Submariner watch without calendar display) some people love it, some people ignore it (perhaps because they don’t know the existence of no calendar water ghost at all), but it is indeed published in the Submariner watch The calendar has not been considered within the scope of the change of the front, back, left, right and left.

The 5512 antique watch produced by Rolex Submariner later

The 5512 antique watch produced by Rolex Submariner later

It was not until 1969 (ten years after the launch of the 5512 and 16 years after the 6204) that the first Submariner watch Ref. 1680 with a calendar display appeared. This is extremely important for the Submariner series, because the technology of the artificial sapphire mirror has not yet taken shape at the time. The technical evolution of this date convex mirror has also become the focus of the research and development of the Rolex Submariner watch for decades. One. However, the submariner watch without a calendar design is still the most original design in the 1950s. Looking back now, it also has its own unique charm.

Rolex Submariner model 1680 antique watch

Rolex Submariner model 1680 antique watch

The 5513 non-calendar model introduced in the 1980s has several important technical improvements and has become the marking element of the modern non-calendar submariner style: three-dimensional hour markers surrounded by white gold and filled with tritium material luminous; shiny lacquered black dial. The 41mm non-calendar Submariner launched in 2020 is an advanced style with an enlarged case size of 114060 launched in 2012. The non-calendar submariner has been equipped with 3130 since the 14060 in the 1990s. Up to now, although the automatic winding movement has been certified by the Swiss Observatory, almost everyone is looking forward to the Rolex certified movement 3230 (no calendar) and 3235 (calendar) with an accuracy of plus or minus two seconds per day. , It can be used in the submariner style that everyone loves, and it will finally be achieved in 2020.

2020 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 41 watch 124060

2020 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 41 watch 124060

2020 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 41 watch 124060, Oystersteel case diameter 41 mm, one-piece 60-minute scale black ceramic Cerachrom bezel, die-cast scales and numbers are plated with platinum with PVD coating technology, equipped 3230 two-way automatic winding movement, vibration frequency 4 Hz, energy storage for 70 hours, water resistance to 300 meters, stop-second function, Swiss Observatory certification, Rolex certification, global five-year warranty, Oyster three-compartment chain with folding Oyster Safety buckle, equipped with 20 mm Rolex Glidelock extension system.

I don’t know why I prefer the Submariner watch with no calendar design. To a certain extent, the more I look at it, the more pure it feels. This generational change from the 1950s to 2020 has always been maintained. As in the old Bond movie, the technology has been updated and the performance has improved, but the appearance has maintained such a classic and beautiful appearance, as if it has not undergone any damage and elimination over the years, and its status remains unshakable over time.

3. Unidirectional rotating bezel + Cerachrom

Some people do not understand why the bezel of a diving watch should be emphasized that it rotates in one direction? Because it is hard for us to imagine now, from the time when Rolex first launched the Submariner, and then triggered a wave of creation for all brands to start developing their own diving watches, it was not until the 1980s that the unidirectional rotating bezel technology was officially adopted. Developed, the rotating bezels of all diving watches before this are bidirectional. There are safety concerns when using it in real diving activities.

2020 Rolex Submariner Submariner type new design, classic sawtooth unidirectional rotating bezel

2020 Rolex Submariner Submariner type new design, classic sawtooth unidirectional rotating bezel

The Submariner Submariner launched the first 16800 with a unidirectional rotating bezel in 1981, and the Rolex Submariner also officially entered the five-digit model code. The so-called unidirectional rotating bezel is to move the bezel with your fingers. The bezel can only be rotated in one direction, and it cannot be rotated in the opposite direction. This device is to prevent accidental touching of the bezel during diving activities. Mistakes in calculating time underwater.

2020 Rolex Submariner 41mm without calendar 124060 model

2020 Rolex Submariner 41mm without calendar 124060 model

The unidirectional rotating bezel used by the Rolex Submariner is from the evolution of the unidirectional zigzag ring structure in 1979. It has undergone many refinements and revisions. Rolex’s current scale on the outer ring of the Submariner is composed of springs. The components, steel ball bearings, and a top button that pushes up to the bottom of the outer ring are pushed by a ratchet system, and has a reverse-reversal design. The overall unidirectional rotating bezel structure is 120 grooves, which can be turned with one click. And precise.

Exploded view of the case structure of the Rolex Submariner

Exploded view of the case structure of the Rolex Submariner

In addition to the technology of the unidirectional rotatable bezel, there is also a technical update of the material of the Rolex Submariner bezel. In 2005, Rolex used a ceramic bezel made of a new technology for the first time in the 50th anniversary commemorative style of the GMT-Master II series. Cerachrom, a patented ceramic ring developed exclusively by Rolex, has become one of the important elements of Rolex design in the new era.

2020 Rolex Submariner 126613LB blue ceramic ring with blue plate

2020 Rolex Submariner 126613LB blue ceramic ring with blue plate

The characteristic of the Rolex Cerachrom ceramic bezel lies in its exquisite craftsmanship. First, the ceramic ring embedded with numbers and scales is fired, then the entire bezel is plated with platinum or gold plating, and then the metal plating on the bezel is polished and removed. , But retain the metal plating of the numbers and time scales, while the ceramic color of the rest shows a smooth and bright effect.

Watch ceramic ring

Watch ceramic ring

In the past, the Rolex professional sports watches of the old era often used aluminum electroplating to treat the bezel, so there were often changes in wear and oxidation. However, these raw materials were not perfect with the technology at the time. Instead, they became the collection of Rolex wrists. Features and selling points of the watch. The Cerachrom ceramic bezel is not only not affected by ultraviolet rays, oxidation, etc., but also has no discoloration or serious scratches. The watch will last for a long time after wearing for a long time. I don’t know if this is the advantage brought by the new technology or is too much. What about the boringness of precision and precision craftsmanship?

The finished ceramic bezel only retains the metal coating for the numerals and hour markers

The finished ceramic bezel only retains the metal coating for the numerals and hour markers

Rolex’s Cerachrom ceramic ring craftsmanship has, as always, caused the watch ring to follow suit. In 2008, the Submariner ceramic ring design was launched and became one of the basic equipment of all diving watches on the market. At present, the ceramic bezel of the Rolex Submariner has three color choices of black, blue, and green. In the GMT-Master II model, a patented ceramic bezel with a two-color combination of upper and lower halves has been developed.

4. Comey Frog or Hulk

The source of the Submariner design is the black dial design that is more suitable for luminous highlighting. The bezel is also black for performance considerations. Even the inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock position on the rotating bezel plus a three-dimensional circle The design of dot luminous signs also changed from red or silver alternately in the 1990s, and has been fixed to silver since then. Submariner watches, which have always had no color changes in design, did not officially begin until the gold style of the blue bezel appeared.

The Green Bezel Submariner watch launched in 2003 on the 50th anniversary of Rolex Submariner

The Green Bezel Submariner watch launched in 2003 on the 50th anniversary of Rolex Submariner

Even so, it was not until 2003 that the Submariner style that changed between blue, black, gold, and stainless steel had an anniversary green bezel design. This was the first time for the Submariner, but since then Let the submariner’s green circle (commonly known as the green water ghost) become a hot style in the market. In 2003, the 16610LV with green aluminum circle and black dial was nicknamed Kermit (Komi Frog in Sesame Street) by watch friends. It was produced for seven years, and then the green circle nicknamed the Hulk green face came on the scene. .

In 2010, Rolex first introduced a green dial color other than black or blue in the design of the Submariner watch

In 2010, Rolex first introduced a green dial color other than black or blue in the design of the Submariner watch

In 2010, the 116610LV green circle green disc submariner was nicknamed the Hulk Hulk by table friends, which shows its position in the hearts of Rolex fans. From a cute Komi frog, it thrives to an unbeatable superhero. The green circle at this time has also been updated to the Cerachrom ceramic word circle. It is also the second all-green dial in the current Rolex professional sports watch (the first one is the 50th anniversary black circle of the GMT-Master II launched in 2005. Green disk commemorative models), with the introduction of the new 126610LV green circle black disk in 2020, the 116610LV green disk green surface will also be discontinued, and the green storm set off by Rolex will continue to sweep.

126610 LV

126610 LV

2020 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date 41 Watch 126610 LV, Oystersteel case diameter 41 mm, one-piece 60-minute scale green ceramic Cerachrom bezel, moulded indexes and numbers are plated with platinum with PVD coating technology , Equipped with 3235 two-way automatic winding movement, vibration frequency of 4 Hz, 70 hours of energy storage, 300 meters of water resistance, Swiss Observatory certification, Rolex certification, global five-year warranty, fast adjustment and instantaneous jumping calendar, stop-second function, Oyster III Grid chain strap with folding Oyster-style safety clasp, equipped with 20mm Rolex Glidelock extension system

In 2020, the 126610LV green circle black disc, 41mm submariner type returned to the black lacquer disc surface that submariners should have, and the Cerachrom green ceramic bezel patented by Rolex is used. The style commonly known as green water ghost has also entered another era. . Seeing the 126610LV green circle black disc, I seem to have a better impression of this green ghost. The 116610LV with green disc and green surface is indeed unique, but it also challenges the wearer’s overall dress collocation. 126610LV returns to the low-key style that Rolex should have, and also makes the unique design of the Submariner more prominent. Think if the second hand can be green, is it better?

5. Rolex watch is waterproof to 300 meters with triple protection

How many meters should a good diving watch have? In fact, the depth at which the human body can dive freely can only reach 100 meters. According to the truth, 100 meters is enough. But for Rolex, the Submariner can already be waterproof to 100 meters in 1953, and it was increased to 200 meters in the next year. In 1959, the application of the small crown shoulder protection technology made the submariner case more sealed and waterproof. Improved, but Rolex is still on the waterproof, continue to develop design devices to enhance performance.

Rolex's patented Triplock triple waterproof system

Rolex’s patented Triplock triple waterproof system

Soon in the 1970s, the patented case sealing Triplock design using triple O-rings came out, and the Rolex Submariner watch entered the advanced version with a full 300-meter water resistance. At present, all Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches are Waterproof at more than 100 meters, while the submariner is 300 meters. Take a closer look at the crown of the Submariner watch. Are there three small dots under the crown logo? This is the representative symbol of Triplock triple waterproof system.

On the crown of the Submariner watch, there are three small dots indicating that it has a Triplock triple waterproof system

On the crown of the Submariner watch, there are three small dots indicating that it has a Triplock triple waterproof system

6. What is the difference between the new 2020 model and the previous model?

The new Submariner 41mm styles launched in 2020 are: 124060 no calendar black plate stainless steel version, 126610LV green circle black plate stainless steel model, 126613LB blue circle blue plate gold steel (inter-gold) model and 126619LB blue circle black plate white gold paragraph. There is almost no difference in appearance from the previous model, but a careful comparison, the Submariner model with an enlarged case diameter to 41 mm has a very subtle difference in the line of the case and the width of the strap.

The above picture on the left is the 114060 launched in 2012, and the above picture on the right is the 124060 calendar style launched in 2020

The above picture on the left is the 114060 launched in 2012, and the above picture on the right is the 124060 calendar style launched in 2020

The tails of the lugs of the previous styles were wider, and the tails of the new lugs were narrowed. The reason may be that the chain strap was slightly widened after the diameter of the case was increased. Therefore, the narrower lines of the lugs can achieve overall harmony. It can adapt to the higher compliance after the watch case is enlarged.

The above picture on the left is the 114060 launched in 2012, and the above picture on the right is the 124060 calendar style launched in 2020

The above picture on the left is the 114060 launched in 2012, and the above picture on the right is the 124060 calendar style launched in 2020

The new style of the Submariner in 2020 will also be updated with the automatic winding movement 3230 without calendar and 3235 calendar. To distinguish this new movement style, we can look at the bottom edge of the dial at 6 o’clock and the English words Swiss Made. A small crown means that it is a new model equipped with a new movement. The characteristics of the 3235 movement have been mentioned in the previous article, and we will elaborate on the next time we have the opportunity.

The new Submariner calendar watch equipped with calibre 3235

The new Submariner calendar watch equipped with calibre 3235

In the collection market, Rolex has undergone a century of product design changes. Among them, the professional sports styles have endless changes. For the submariner, there are various changes in the few lines of markings on the face plate. These changes are different, and their worth is different, and they are more likely to become sky-high collections due to their rarity. No one has ever guessed how Rolex will launch new models next, and what are the details of the style updates. Rolex is the mysterious king of the watch industry, and every move has aroused heated discussions and even caused the watch design circle to follow suit. Why do we love Rolex? Why do you continue to work when you start working? Maybe not why, just because it is a Rolex.