It’s already an open secret that boys need to sell popular Rolex models, while girls need to purchase Hermes BKC.
To be honest, I don’t understand the Hermès distribution rules, but I found that there is a “value trough” in Hermès watches. If you buy platinum bags for your wives, girlfriends, and lovers, this watch is super cost-effective.
It is Slim d’Hermès.
The Hermes brand was founded by Thierry Hermès in 1837, at first it was just a saddle workshop. With the management of several generations, it has now become a big group. Hermès has been expanding into the watch field for a long time. As early as 1978, it had a separate watch department. But for a long time, watches have always been a supporting role in supporting roles, and watch friends almost ignore it. Not only will he not take the initiative to buy, but he still despises it as a “fashion watch with no long-term value.”
There was even a conversation before, “Which place do you think the Hermès watch attracts you the most?”
Answer: watch strap…
The Slim series was launched in 2015. It is positioned as an ultra-thin formal watch. At the beginning of the period, it is a steel model and a precious metal model.
When I first saw the Slim series, I felt that this watch was very beautiful. The beauty is that it not only has a common simple design, but also has some small details of its own.
Some watch friends said that it looks like a cheap fashion watch, such as DW.
The brushed bezel, slender lugs, bar needles, and digital scales are indeed similar to many fashion watches. I understand and agree with this relatively. After all, the simple Bauhaus style that is popular nowadays is characterized by being as simple as possible. But for simple things, there is very little room for modification. Inject too many innovative elements, it is not Bauhaus.
While maintaining the overall style, Hermès took great pains on this Slim.
First of all, the digital scale on the dial is not a ready-made font, but Hermès found Philippe Apeloig to develop it separately. The combination of straight lines and curves, the most striking thing is the deliberately left gap, which is very recognizable. If this watch is equipped with a common font, the temperament is a little weaker.
Then, at first glance, the pointer is just a simple bar needle, but when you look closely, it turns out that the hour and minute hands have been treated with mirror polishing + matte sandblasting, and left and right are equally divided. In this way, regardless of the external light, the three-dimensional effect presented by the pointer is stronger.
Secondly, the entire dial is not made of a flat metal substrate, but is divided into three different parts. This design divides the entire dial into three areas. The small seconds dial has a white fine-grained texture, the middle is a black matte ring brushed, and the number scale is a bright surface radiation pattern.
Finally, the overall tone of the dial is black and gray, and the twelve and six o’clock scales and the small seconds are orange-yellow. This combination reveals a touch of playfulness in calmness. This is also very similar to the Pantone classic color forecast in 2021.
The case and strap are also super compatible with the dial.
The Hv hardness of stainless steel is 170-200, while titanium alloy is only 100-160, so there is a saying that titanium alloy is easier to wear than stainless steel. In addition, the crystal grains of titanium are unstable, and the hardness will change slightly. The conventional polishing process will cause unevenness on the surface of the watch case, which is generally called chromatic aberration. Therefore, the titanium alloy case is basically done with sandblasting and wire drawing surface treatment. And this Slim just needs the case to be matte gray to fit the dial. If it is made of stainless steel, the whole is not too good.
The lugs are also detailed with a small corner. Such a modification, first, can highlight the strap, which feels like being held in the middle; second, it makes the lugs look more slender, which echoes the simplicity of the dial font and hands. It adds a touch of spirituality to the usual smooth lugs.
Hermès carefully selected the crocodile bamboo pattern to sew the strap by hand. What I like most is that the crocodile leather sealing oil is not gray, but orange, which echoes the dial twice.
Hermès started with harness and is indeed very strong in the production of leather goods. However, this Slim I got this time, there was a very embarrassing thing, that is, although the upper and lower crocodile straps are slub patterns, their patterns do not match, and the top is from the slender tail of the crocodile. The bamboo joints, below are the wide and short bamboo joints on the abdomen of the crocodile. I don’t know if it was wrong after the customs declaration entered China. For other brands, this is not an oversight, but for Hermès, which is famous for its leather goods, it feels a bit of a mistake.
The reason why watch friends do not like Hermès is that Hermès is not a professional watch brand and does not have the ability to develop and produce movements. Not all brands can produce their own, and they really need to produce their own movements. The best choice for most brands is outsourcing, while outsourced movements are conventionally ETA, Sellita, and Soprod. It’s just that the movements provided by these three brands are relatively ordinary, while the previous high-end FP and old-brand lemania have been covered by large groups and cannot be bought. Vaucher Fleurier is currently the most balanced high-end movement supplier on the market.
Indeed, although Hermès has been involved in the watch industry for a long time, it mainly sells logos and designs, which the brand itself knows. Hermes has some shortcomings, but it has a super big advantage, that is, it has money! ! !
In order to go further in the watch industry, Hermès directly bought 25% of the high-end movement manufacturer Vaucher Fleurier at a cost of 25 million Swiss francs in 2006. The major shareholder behind VF is the “Santos Foundation”, Parmigiani Fleurier’s investor, and began to cooperate with Parmigiani Fleurier in depth. This is why you can see Hermès straps on Parmigiani Fleurier watches.
For this movement, everyone can also call Hermès “semi-produced”.
In addition to the Vaucher Fleurier used by Hermes and Parmigiani Fleurier, the now hot Richard Mille also carries it. For watches with a public price of less than 3 million, the movement comes from the Vaucher Fleurier movement factory, and the chronograph model is based on the VF movement with a DD module (the self-produced chronograph movement was not realized until half a year ago).
In order to avoid embarrassment, although Hermès, Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille are all VF movements, they have modified the shape of the splint separately to show the difference. The Hermès pearl tuo movement can be said to be the ugliest one, and it is also the biggest shortcoming of this Slim. The lines of the splint are irregular and have no aesthetic feeling. Although the movement splint deliberately polishes the iconic Hermès H as a decoration, the actual effect is still ugly.
Although ugly, the effect of this ultra-thin Pearl Tuo mechanical movement is still very obvious. The 39.5mm titanium alloy case has an overall thickness of only 7.8mm, which is very light and thin. It can be completely tucked into a shirt, and with the soft Hermes alligator strap, it is also very comfortable to wear.
Its domestic public price is 57,400 yuan. According to the detailed design and configuration we introduced earlier, the price is reasonable. Compared with some brands, it can even be regarded as a conscience. And Hermès watches can be sold as a tie-in! The lost part of the purchase of Slim can be moved to the platinum bag, which is equivalent to the actual starting price of this watch is less than 30,000 yuan. If you distribute clothes, shoes, and jewelry, their value will gradually decrease with the season, fashion trend, and use. The current price of this Slim on the secondary market has reached the bottom, and the water has been completely drained.
I have always advised everyone not to buy watches just for cheap. The Hermes Slim is not only good-looking, but also cheap. At the same time, from a long-term perspective, this simple model + a unique brand design + recognizable watch will not be out of date, and it also has room for collection and growth.
A few years ago, Hodinkee and Hermès cooperated and launched a limited edition work that was modified on the basis of Slim, replaced with a gradient blue dial, which was already over the public price.
A few final reminders, not all Slims are worthy of being distributed. If you encounter it, first, you need to have a 39.5mm male model, not a female watch; second, choose the case material, steel>titanium alloy>precious metal>intermediate gold; third, the simpler the function the better; Don’t set diamonds if you don’t.