I am not a professional, that is, I do not know how to make or repair watches. I am pure hobby. I have bought a watch for many years. During the period, I stepped on a lot of pits and spent a lot of wronged money. Therefore, the experience is all “buy with money.”
Although the title is “How to check a Rolex”, in fact, some of the following experiences are common to all famous watches, but Rolex is the most typical. In addition to the market situation of Rolex, many popular specialty stores do not have them. You need to buy them in the secondary market and private market, and the circulation of old models and discontinued models is also very large, so Rolex is the representative. Next, let’s talk about the key areas of the famous watch.
1. Check the watch mirror
As you all know, the mirror of Rolex is slightly protruding from the bezel, and the mirror is higher than the bezel. The raised edge of the mirror is very easy to bump and damage. Once the mirror surface has bumps, you can only replace the mirror surface. The detail of the mirror edge is often overlooked, so that the damage cannot be found in the first place. So when I get a Rolex (including other watches with raised mirrors), the first thing I do is to check the edges of the mirrors. Walk around the edge of the mirror with your fingers, feel for any small pits or gaps, and then you will find it immediately after you touch it with your fingers.
I got this experience because green glass was very hot for a while in the early years, and then I also got one. At that time, I had no experience and didn’t pay attention to the glass. Later I discovered that there were small gaps on the edge of the glass. It was more expensive to change to a green glass mirror. After learning this trick, it is still used.
2. Check the watch bubble mirror
Many Rolex watches have bubble mirrors. The bubble mirror protrudes from the mirror surface, which is the most prominent place on the top of the watch. It is often unknowingly damaged. Bubble mirrors are usually worn out. If they are broken, they can be seen at a glance, but wear is not easy to find. Get a watch and check the bubble mirror. If you find that the bubble mirror has a “white mark” under a certain light, wipe it and find that there is still, then use your fingernail and gently walk on the bubble mirror At one point, if the nails feel “pimple” and the bubble mirror is not smooth, then there is bumps and wear.
The problem of bubble mirror is more common. I discovered that there was a “white mark” on the bubble mirror of the watch that could not be wiped off. I didn’t know whether it was dirty or bumped. I asked a friend and he taught me this method.
3. Check the watch ring
We can always hear that the ceramic ring is scratch resistant, but in fact, the ceramic ring will leave marks due to bumps and scratches, but it is relatively more scratch resistant. Nowadays, ceramics are very common. The ceramic bezels of Rolex sports models and other famous watches with ceramic materials should focus on the ceramic part, because once the ceramic is damaged, it cannot be repaired. The ceramic ring will leave a white mark after being scratched. If you find a white mark on the ceramic bezel or ceramic case and it cannot be wiped off, it is caused by scratching.
I encountered this situation on my previous Rolex water ghost, the IWC ceramic shell flying meter (flying meter jet fire), and found that the ceramic part had a white mark and could not be wiped off. Later, I learned that the ceramic was scratched. So take a closer look at the ceramic part of the watch.
4. Check the number and scale of the watch circle
Rolex’s ceramic bezel refers to the top ring of the bezel, which is ceramic. The numbers and scales on the ceramic bezel are “cut holes” in the ceramic ring and then filled with paint or gold to make the numbers and scales. The numbers and scales on the ceramic ring are slightly recessed. It should be noted here that the numbers and scales on the ceramic ring are relatively easy to stain and scratch.
I used to have a water ghost between gold and blue and the gold and blue bezel numbers, filled with gold. One day I found that one of the numbers was a bit “incomplete”. At first I thought it was dirty because of the bezel. The numbers are slightly sunken, and I can’t erase them. Later, when he got it from a friend, he took a look with a magnifying glass. It turned out that the gold letters on the bezel had been “cut” and the gold letters were damaged. The ceramic ring is relatively scratch-resistant, but the numbers and scales on the bezel must be paid more attention and checked.
5. Check the dial of the watch
There are two situations on the disk, let me talk about the first one, the special material disk. A few years ago, I bought a Girard Perregaux with mother-of-pearl. The mother-of-pearl dish is what players commonly call the “shell dish”. It has a colorful effect under different light and is very beautiful. At first, I didn’t pay attention at all, until later, I found cracks on the mother-of-pearl dial. Since the mother-of-pearl disk surface flashes under the light and the color changes, it is easy to overlook the small cracks on the disk surface. Therefore, when buying the mother-of-pearl disk surface, you must check it carefully to avoid any minor flaws.
In the second case, no matter what the dial, you must pay attention to check the dial and hands of the watch. Because in the process of assembling, maintaining, and repairing the watch, when installing the dial and hands, there may be small traces, small scratches, or small black spots, small white spots, etc. I bought a Jaeger-LeCoultre master moon phase before. There are fine radiation patterns on the white disk. At a certain angle, I found a small spot. Although it can only be seen at a certain angle, it is not obvious, but I feel awkward. This watch is in the warranty period. I sent it to the after-sales service and it was resolved.
About the movement of the Rolex 32 series
Since the 32 series gradually replaced the 31 series movement, some players have reported that the 32 series movement has been inaccurate. I personally bought and came into contact with the 32 series of Rolex, the time is basically accurate. The standard of the Rolex Super Observatory is an error of +2/-2 seconds per day. For example, individual Rolex exceeds the standard, which is 3 or 5 seconds faster, which is normal. I have only encountered a 32-calibre Rolex, and the error is about 10 seconds slow per day. This must be a problem. This is a friend’s watch. I remember it is 126334. Then I was wondering and wanted to know the reason, so I sent this watch to a familiar watch shop for inspection. The explanation later was that some of the oil was dry. This is the only time I have encountered a 32-calibre Rolex with inaccurate time.